48 hours in Cox's Bazar

Day one: beach and breakfast

Start at Laboni Beach before 7 AM when the fishermen haul in their overnight catch. Walk south toward Sugandha Point, stopping at Jhaubon for coconut water from the roadside stalls that line Hotel Motel Zone on Beach Road. The 3-km stretch is quieter than the main strip and costs nothing. Breakfast at Poushee Restaurant near the police box: paratha with daal runs $1.50, and they open at 6:30 AM sharp.

Afternoon belongs to Himchari National Park, 12 km south. A CNG auto-rickshaw from Kolatoli costs $4 one-way and takes 25 minutes. The waterfall is seasonal but the coastal trail delivers views over broken hills toward Inani Beach. Pack water. Return by 4 PM to catch the light at Laboni Point, then have grilled pomfret at Sea Stone Restaurant on Marine Drive for $8.

Day two: temples and markets

Hire a motorbike from Kolatoli Circle for $12/day and ride 40 minutes to Ramu, the Buddhist heartland. Lamanchor Temple sits off the Ramu-Teknaf highway; remove shoes, no photography inside the prayer hall. The monastery compound has 200-year-old manuscripts, and monks will chat if you visit before 11 AM. Nearby Boro Bahar Ghat has tea stalls where a cup costs 10 taka.

Return via Dulahazara Safari Park if you have time—entry $3 for foreigners, safari jeep $15 for the group. Otherwise head straight to Burmese Market on Main Road in town by 5 PM. This is where Rohingya traders sell thanaka paste, betel boxes, and lacquerware. Bargain hard. Dinner at Jhawban Restaurant: prawn malai curry with naan is $6, and they stay open until 11 PM.

Where to sleep

The Hotel Motel Zone along Beach Road has everything from $15 guesthouses to $80 resorts. Kollol Garden and Jhinuk Cottage offer sea-facing balconies for $25-30, hot water works most of the time, and the beach is a two-minute walk. Skip anywhere quoting above $100 unless it includes breakfast and a sunset cruise. Book direct by phone to save the Booking.com markup.